Dear Ol’ Dad – Gusher – April 2012

Several years back I reminisced a few humorous moments of my father, Dr. R.E. Bailey’s, time in practice.  Dad passed away on April first.  He, himself, would have considered that date fitting.  In memory, I’d like to revisit these events and share his interesting way with people.  Those of you who knew him will chuckle at his amusing ways and a few may even remember and have stories of your own. 

In the days when my father, Dr. Bailey, Sr., and I worked together, there were occasional conversations that I couldn’t help but jot down.  He was loved by his clientele, many of whom still ask about him.  I know he wouldn’t mind us having a few laughs with him.  The following are but a few memories of the “good ‘ole days.” 

My father did have the tendency to answer the question that is asked rather than the intended meaning of the question.  The following is a summary of dialog that took place between he and a specific client. 

The client asked, “How long does it take a female dog to have puppies?”  The response by Dr. Bailey Sr., was, “Oh, usually just a few minutes.”  Another time the old doc asked a client, “Would you like to bury him or do you want us to take care of the remains?”  The client replied, “I don’t know how I’d bury him unless I just dug a hole and put him in it.”  Dr. Bailey replied, “That’s the best way”. 

On another occasion, Dr. Bailey, Sr., said, “Is he scratching?”  The client replied, “How do I know what he feels?  I’m not in his skin!”  And, Dr. Bailey, Sr., said, “I didn’t ask you if he itched, I asked you if he scratched.” 

A client complained that what she was requested to give her animal didn’t work.  The conversation went something like this:  Woman, “Yeah, I used some; but it didn’t seem to help.”  And Dr. Bailey, Sr., said, “Yes it did.”  The client responded, “Did it?”  Then Sr., said, “Sure, but you couldn’t tell it.”  The woman’s only response was just a plain, “Oh.” 

Another incident I recall goes something like this, my father said to the client, “And use this, it doesn’t work as fast as the other; but it kills those fleas that get on between sprayings.”  I later asked him, “Why, if it gets those that get on between sprayings, do you have to spray again?” 

This is a conversation I overheard.  Dr. Bailey, Sr., said, “I’m sorry, we don’t work on large animals any longer.”  The client responded, “But he’s just a little pig.” 

A client once asked my father, “Could that be a seven pound dog?”  To which Dad replied, “It could, if it wasn’t so fat!” 

Once, while explaining to a client, whose dog had been scooting on the carpet, that the reason for the scooting was an irritated anus caused by an anal sac problem, the lady had a plethora of questions which evidently irritated the doctor.  The conversation ended like this: Dr. Bailey, Sr., said, “Just rub a little Vaseline on his anus once in a while.”  The client responded, “Will that help?”  My Dad said, “No, but he’ll slide a lot easier!” 

Then there was the woman who said her dog was having multiple seizures.  She told Dad that her animal had been placed on seizure medication and still continued to have quite a few seizures.  Dad asked, “What’s the name of the medicine she’s on?”  The client replied, “It’s spelled a-c-e-p-r-o-m-a-z-i-n-e.”  Dr. Bailey, Sr., replied, “That’s not seizure medicine.  That’s a tranquilizer.”  After a few milliseconds of deep thought she came back, “Then I guess she’s not having seizures!” 

Dad was taking in a cat to spay and was in the process of taking information on the animal.  While in the examination room, he started to open the box in which the animal was transported.  This box was a large square one in which a tin of popcorn had come.  Opening the container was no small task and, as the owner and my father cut the strings and many yards of tape securing it, the owner nervously commented that the cat was rather wild.  As dad slowly lifted the lid, the top of the box exploded and a frenzied ball of fur and claws went straight up like an erupting volcano.  I thought this only happened in cartoons: but, this flash of energy seemed to hang in mid-air about two feed above the box before it flew out of the exam room into the reception area, and then on to another exam room without touching a thing.  Very calmly, while beginning to write on the record, my father commented: “Okay, that’s what I needed to know … if she was yellow.” 

Dr. Richard Eugene Bailey: November 24, 1928 – April 1, 2012 (April fool’s day). 

He practiced veterinary medicine in southwest Tulsa from 1965 to 1990.  Thanks, Dad.

Declawing – March 2012

Would you explain exactly what is involved in declawing a cat and is it really as cruel as I hear?    

We are often asked whether or not a cat should be declawed.  Obviously if the animal does not have the habit of sharpening his or her claws on the furniture or drapery and is not overly aggressive with family members then that animal should not be declawed.  If other pets in the house are running the risk of corneal puncture (a common injury in curious pups) the story changes.  Furthermore, if your waterbed has sprung a leak, if your drapes are shredded, if your furniture is frayed, or if your family members have to wear a training glove to pet the family cat then you are probably ready to take this step. 

To declaw or not to declaw is an ongoing dispute with each side having its avid defenders.  The most touted reasons not to declaw are: “He won’t be able to defend himself or climb trees”; “He won’t be a good mouser”; “It’s so cruel”; “He will be in a lot of pain.”  Let us address these, one at a time. 

When we declaw a cat we remove only the front claws.  In a cat fight these function primarily to initiate the brawl.  Once the encounter is well under way the front claws and the teeth help to hold the opponent while the hind claws rip and tear at the enemy.  If the cat stays inside as city ordnance dictates, then the fight issue is a moot point. 

Most of my own cats have been declawed and all have forgiven me. When they do get out (as most cats eventually do from time to time) they are good climbers. I have yet to see a tree or a fence they can’t master.  The spayed or neutered cat doesn’t go out looking for trouble but if another cat enters his or her territory it will be defended vigorously.  

Again, my cats have caught their share of mice and even gophers.  My mother-in-law doesn’t appreciate the “gifts” our cats bring her from the garage as the cats compete with the mouse traps.  Fortunately, they are personality plus and love their way back into her favor.

I’m not going to try to tell you that there is no pain at all with the declaw procedure but it is done under general anesthesia, and post-operative pain medication is used.  At our facility we perform the operation with a surgical laser so there is little or no bleeding, swelling or pain.  They go home the same day and return to normal in no time.  Most cats act like nothing has happened. 

When one considers the alternatives, which include torn or ragged furniture or drapery and scratched up arms and faces (not to mention, eyes), or destroying or trying to find a new home for a perfectly healthy and happy pet, it is easy to see that declawing can be a welcome solution to a frustrating problem.

Cryosurgery, a gentle alternative – February 2012

 Q.        My ten-year-old schnauzer has several small lumps all over her body.  Our veterinarian told us they are not cancer but one of them gets bumped and she licks it until it bleeds.  I would really like to get rid of them but the thought of anesthesia scares me.  Is there another way? 

A.        Anesthesia is not as large a risk as it once was.  We have excellent tranquilizers and anesthetics which minimize the dangers.  Blood work and ECG are assessed to detect underlying problems before any procedures involving general anesthesia.  While asleep, the patient is monitored much the same way as we are and often has an intravenous catheter and fluids in place.  Still, there are alternatives to anesthesia and the scalpel, if the lumps are small. 

The most common of these skin lumps are benign skin masses, known as sebaceous adenomas or sebaceous hyperplasias.  These usually appear as pale or pink wart-like growths on the skin that are firm and hairless.  They may be pigmented and may occur anywhere on the body.  They sometimes ulcerate and bleed, especially when bumped.  Occasionally the masses are merely skin tags.  There are two main methods we use to remove them, usually without sedation or even a local block. 

One method employed by our practice is that of laser surgery.  Using a medical laser we are able to “ablate” the lumps with an invisible beam of light and be done with it.  This takes only a few minutes and is done on an out-patient basis.  Unless the lump is very tiny a small needle is inserted around and under it to deaden the skin with lidocaine. 

An even gentler method of removal for benign skin masses is cryosurgery. The animal usually stands for this without any fuss and it can even be done in the examination room in a matter of minutes.  Our cryosurgery unit employs a new technology known as linear compression cooling.  With this, we need no blocks of any kind.  Masses up to nearly a half inch can be removed with no danger to the animal or holder.  There are no liquids or gases involved so it is safe enough we can use it near the face and eyelids.  As such, it is much less expensive than alternative methods. 

The newer technologies we are fortunate enough to have access to truly have improved the patient care and safety of our furry friends, just as they have done for people on the human side of medicine.

Cloudy Eyes – January 2012

Q. My elderly dog has developed a cloudy appearance to her eyes.  She still gets around well butIn dim light she bumps into things.  Do dogs get cataracts?  Is there anything that can be done for her? 

 A. That is entirely possible.  There are other possibilities such as corneal ulcer or opacity and detached   retina.  Cataracts, however, are the most likely.  An ophthalmic exam is in order, where the doctor will examine the eyes with an ophthalmoscope and check intraocular pressures and tear production.  Fluorescein dye may also be used to examine the integrity of the cornea. 

A cataract is an opacity, or cloudiness, of the lens and/or its capsule.  The cause of a cataract cannot always be determined but there are several types. 

The first, congenital cataracts, are those present at the time of birth.  These usually are not noticed until the dog is eight to twelve weeks of age.  Furthermore they may or may not be inherited. 

Next, we have juvenile cataracts.  These generally develop before six years of age in the dog, and are usually inherited.  On the other hand, senile cataracts are a part of the normal aging process and, as the name implies, occur later in life.  Injury or trauma may also contribute to the formation of cataracts. 

 Another major category is the diabetic cataract.  These occur secondary to diabetes mellitus, or “sugar diabetes”, and are the result of a high blood sugar.  This raises the glucose (sugar) concentration in the lens and alters its metabolism ultimately leading to cataract formation.  Quite often cataracts are the first signs noticed by the owner of a diabetic dog. 

Many dogs get along just fine with limited or even no vision if the environment remains relatively constant.  Do not move the furniture around more than necessary and keep the bedding and the food and water bowls in the same place. If you have a “usual” chair in which you sit and the dog knows to find you there then don’t abruptly change your habits. 

By all means, if you should happen to notice cataracts or any change in the appearance of your dog’s eyes schedule an immediate appointment with your veterinarian.  There are certain treatable conditions which may cause these changes. If the condition happens to be diabetes mellitus the eyes are the least of her worries, yet this, too, is not that difficult to control for committed pet owners.

So, It’s Cold Outside – November 2011

After a record-setting summer that followed a record-setting winter we don’t know what to expect.  So, with that in mind, maybe we should be prepared for anything. 

While many animals are well suited for the cold weather, if they are more accustomed to being inside, the sudden change may be somewhat of a shock if thrust out in single-digit temperatures for extended periods of time.  Fur may be a great insulator but wet fur doesn’t follow that rule.  Frequent bathing washes out the natural oils that protect against moisture and that animal may merely become coated with icy hair. 

Outdoor pets, even when accustomed, still need adequate shelter, protected especially from the north wind.  Ice is not a good source of water so be sure there is plenty of fresh water at all times.  In order to stay warm there must be a good fuel supply, i.e. food.  Just because the bag says Dog Food that does not mean it is quality. 

All good maintenance dog foods are substantiated through AAFCO (American Association of Feed Control Officials) feeding trials.  If the bag merely states that it meets “guaranteed analysis” or “formulated to meet…” that is not enough, even if AAFCO is mentioned.  There are forty-eleven jillion different pet foods out there, most are good but many are not.  This is the best first line method of differentiating them.  The statement is usually in tiny words in an obscure place and often hard to find.  If in doubt bring the bag to your veterinarian to evaluate. 

Some people enjoy setting New Year’s resolutions.  These could include making sure that all vaccinations and parasite testing (that includes intestinal parasites, heartworms and ectoparasites) are current.  A healthy mouth not only helps with halitosis, but allows them to be able to eat without pain and helps with overall health.  February is Pet Dental Health Month and dental prophylaxis is often deeply discounted that month. 

Remember, your pet’s doctor, like your own, is there for the health of the patient.  This doesn’t mean just when they are sick, injured, or for their regular examinations.  The doctor is also your best source of information for any questions or concerns regarding your pet.  It is always better to prevent than to treat.

Pet Identification – October 2011

We recently had a client express concerns about traveling with her pets.  Her main issue was what would happen if one or more of her three Poodles were to wander from her and get lost in a strange place.  We had two recommendations.  First, implant a microchip. 

A microchip is a tiny device, about the size of a grain of rice, which is placed under the skin over the back of the neck, between the shoulder blades.  This chip may be scanned with a reader and an identification number will show up, traceable to the owner.  You, the owner, have control over what contact information is available should your pet be found.  It is now standard procedure, when an animal is found, to scan for a microchip.  This is done at almost all animal shelters and veterinary hospitals.  The vast majority of microchipped animals are promptly reunited with their families.  Unfortunately, only about five percent of pets are ever microchipped, and reuniting a non-chipped animal with its family is truly a long-shot. 

The second thing we advise is to carry a Pet ID card.  We offer these at check-out after a visit involving vaccinations.  This card will be sent to you within two to three weeks of your examination, is wallet-sized, and contains the following information: 

A photograph of the pet

Your pet’s description

Any known allergies

Your contact information

The vaccination history

Your veterinarian’s contact information

Contact information for our area emergency clinics

 

Our clients love these and enjoy showing off their pet’s own photo-ID card to friends and family.  Our patients consider the cards to be a status symbol. 

One other tool available is a GPS unit attached to the collar.  While being able to track the animal directly is a great advantage, collars do get lost or removed. 

We receive calls to our office daily, either for lost pets or found pets.  Seldom can we match these up, however when there is a microchip involved we rejoice, knowing that, once again, a family will be together soon.

Pug-Nosed Problems – September 2011

My new pug snores!  I knew they were noisy but we are having trouble sleeping.  What can we do about this? 

Dogs with short noses and “pushed-in” faces are technically referred to as “brachycephalic”, meaning “short head”.  These include such breeds as the English bulldog, pug, Boston terrier, and boxer, among others.  As man bred these dogs for the desired short noses, this caused a number of abnormalities to develop.  These are collectively called “Brachycephalic Upper Airway Syndrome”.  This includes a poorly developed (hypoplastic) trachea, stenotic (closed or narrow) nares (another word for nostrils), and elongated soft palate.  With some individual animals, there is also a condition known as everted laryngeal saccules.  Together these cause the snorting and snoring.  Apart from being very annoying it also can lead to a myriad of complications, including hypertension and heart problems, and may ultimately shorten the lifespan of an individual animal. 

In the past the surgeries to correct these congenital disorders were fraught with complications, such as bleeding, swelling, and excessive pain.  But with our modern technology most of the difficulties have been diminished.  Using certain types of surgical lasers we can correct the nostrils in such a way that they don’t even look like they have had facial reconstruction.  This helps them to move more air through the nasal passages and breathe better.  Likewise, the soft palate may now be shortened to the desired length and position so as to reduce or in some cases even eliminate the snoring.  If needed, the everted saccules may also be reconstructed.  All of this may be accomplished with little or no bleeding, swelling, or pain.  In addition to the surgical laser for the corrections, a therapy laser will hasten healing and further minimize pain.  Most dogs come out of the surgeries eating and drinking as though nothing even happened. 

If we reduce the effects of these congenital abnormalities with the aforementioned procedures, the animal usually does very well and may lead a comfortable and long life.  A nice fringe benefit of helping the dog to breathe better and live longer is that the people in the household can finally get a good night’s sleep.

Fall Allergies – July and August 2011

Allergies may occur at any time or even be continual.  When they are year round it may be prudent to perform allergy testing and find out which particular allergens are affecting the animal.  With this information, some agents are avoidable and the others we may be able to hyposensitize against. 

When the allergies are seasonal it may be best to control the itching with a combination of shampoos, sprays, antihistamines, or immunosuppressant agents (such as cyclosporine or, as a last resort, corticosteroids). 

Whether spring or fall, the airborne allergens (dusts pollens, etc.) increase as the trees, weeds, and grasses change.  When the grass is wet from dew or rain many pets will develop a sensitivity and start licking and chewing their feet.  While medications such as antihistamines and topical sprays help, it is even more important to get rid of the source of the irritation.  This often is accomplished by merely rinsing the feet as the animal comes in from the outdoors.  Interestingly, this may be the only treatment necessary.  If there are already secondary infections involved, these will need to be addressed. 

Ear infections are extremely common in the spring and the fall, especially in wet weather.  Most ear infections are secondary to allergic otitis (allergic inflammation of the ears).  When the ears become inflamed it sets up a moist raw environment that is very conducive to the overgrowth of bacteria and yeast.  Simply treating the allergy doesn’t relieve the infection.  Conversely, simply treating the infection does not address the allergies.  For resolution we have to address both problems simultaneously.  This often involves both systemic and topical medications, usually after thorough cleaning of the ear canals.  This is sometimes done under a general anesthetic, especially if they are painful. 

The therapy laser is always helpful as an aid in the treatment of otitis as it decreases pain and inflammation and helps open up the ear canals for continued medication.  Once resolved, we then address maintenance because, left alone, the condition will merely return. 

Being aware of the underlying causes of allergies will help us to understand the logic of the treatment regimen and how important it is to control the situation.  All too often a “cure” is expected when it is much more realistic to achieve control.  Your veterinarian, and his staff  will be glad to help you devise a plan that best suits you and your pet.

Scabby Cat Syndrome Revisited – June 2011

(This topic was first published in 2009.  It is revisited by request) 

I have several cats.  One of them keeps getting scabs and sores on his skin and scratching a lot.  The others are fine.  What could his problem be and why is he the only one? 

Skin problems are some of the most difficult cases to properly diagnose, as the cause can range from contact allergies to autoimmune; from inhalant or food allergies to parasites; from infections to fungal, and much more.  Sometimes feeding trials and specific allergy tests are in order, and sometimes it may even require biopsies.  An examination of the skin may reveal signs of fleas, even if there are no fleas found.  If there is a true flea allergy, just one bug will cause this poor cat to do extensive damage to himself scratching.  This can explain why the others may not be affected, as they may not be as sensitive to this specific insult.  Skin scrapings, impression smears and fungal tests may also be warranted. 

With a “scabby cat” (also known as miliary dermatitis) it is common for there to be multiple causes, such as a poor immune system allowing certain parasites to grow unchecked, and those, in turn, cause enough damage for opportunistic organisms to overgrow.  In these cases, all the issues must be dealt with at once to achieve adequate control.  I use the word “control” because often there is no true “cure” but there can be lasting relief with ongoing therapy. 

Seasonal allergies may commonly cause a skin condition which has been controlled fairly well to break from that control and flare up during the spring or the fall.  These cases may need extra help at those times. 

Once the secondary problems are in check, in the case of allergies, it is necessary to control the itching to prevent those from coming back.  This may be accomplished with a variety of tools ranging from antihistamines, to testing and hyposensitization, to immunotherapy.  No two cases are identical so it is up to the veterinarian to try to find the optimal control.  In rare instances, a short run of corticosteroids may be necessary for immediate relief.  

Pet owners often make the mistake of going from doctor to doctor hoping one of them hits on an “instant solution”.  In these cases each doctor is often starting from square one and this only prolongs the problem.  If the doctor you are using has not helped after several visits it is perfectly reasonable to request that your pet be referred to a veterinary dermatologist.  In this case the referring doctor will give the specialist all the findings to that point and will be in communication so that there won’t be any unnecessary duplication of testings or trials.

Top Poisonings – May 2011

Q.  My husband insists on giving our dog chocolate.  I try to tell him not to but it may help if he hears it from a professional. 

A.  I’ll do better than that.  I’ll give it to you straight from the source, that is, the Pet Poison Helpline.According to the helpline, chocolate tops the list as the most common canine poisoning reported to them.  It is toxic to dogs because of a chemical known as theobromine which is similar to caffeine.  Dogs metabolize this chemical much more slowly than their human counterparts so that it may rapidly reach a toxic level.  White and lighter chocolate have much less theobromine than dark chocolate.  Baking chocolate has so much that as little as half an ounce may be fatal in a small dog. 

Signs include a racing heartbeat, nervousness, tremors, seizures, coma and death.  Once signs have started, treatment is hospitalization and supportive care, as there is no antidote. 

Other things on this list include insect bait stations, rodenticides, fertilizers, xylitol (in sugar free gums and candies), ibuprofen (Advil® or Motrin®, silica gel packs, amphetamines (such as found in ADD and ADHD drugs) and household cleaners. 

For cats, the top ten list includes lilies, flea and tick medications intended for dogs, household cleaners, rodenticides, paints and varnishes, non-steroid anti-inflammatory medications, glow sticks or jewelry, amphetamines (ADD and ADHD drugs), acetaminophen (Tylenol®), and ibuprofen (Advil® or Motrin®). 

The Pet Poison Helpline is an animal poison control center that provides advice and recommendations relating to exposures to potentially dangerous substances 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.  There is a small charge for the service but it may just help save the life of your pet.  The Helpline number is 1-800-213-6680.  If possible, have the container or package label or insert with you to save valuable time. 

Pets have the nasty habit of eating just about anything.  Just today I had a patient who coughed half a day before coughing up a wasp.  A sting in the throat may be fatal.  A few years back, one of my patients came in blue and unconscious from just such a sting.  A quick tracheostomy saved her life, thanks to the rapid response of her owner.  Not all such cases come out that well.  

We should be constantly vigilant and prepared for the worse.  My experience is that if you are not ready, it will happen; if you are prepared, it will never occur.